Why do my acrylics always crack on the sides in the stress area?


Why do my acrylics always crack on the sides in the stress area? When I file them out, the white comes off in that area, making fills frustrating.


Tanis Darling: There are a few reasons this might be occurring. Firstly, your stress area application may be lack­ing some support. In gener­al, this ball should be firm in texture and not as wet as the cuticle area application, though manufacturers' instructions may vary. Pat or press (depending on the brand) and pull with the tip and then the belly of the brush through the center of the acrylic ball. Then repeat this to the right and left sides of the acrylic ball.

Make sure when filing that you don't remove so much product that the support you've placed there is gone. Secondly, if the white is com­ing off, you should check your preparation of the nat­ural nail to ensure that you eliminate the possibility of lifting. Double prime if nec­essary. Lifting could be an in­dication of pocketing at the center of the nail, so look closely to see if it is occurring in more than just one nail. If it is pocketing, you will have to check that your ratio is not too wet since this can be the cause. Also, find out if your client is banging them around since that can cause the acrylic to release from the nail plate also.

Finally, have a good look at the state of this client's nails. If they are lifting in other places as well, it may be that she needs a more flexible type of enhancement. Acrylic is a more rigid product and some types of nails just don't do well with it. Try one of her nails in a gel enhancement. You'll know when she returns for her next fill which en­hancement product is best for her.


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