Reverse French Application with Gel

There are a couple of ways to execute traditional pink-and-white nails. Nail tech Robyn Schwartz of Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada, prefers the reverse approach with gel. The technique allows you to focus on forming a structurally sound base and an apex, making it easy to build a successful free edge. “I find the smile line is much crisper and sharp. It also gives you the opportunity to create a perfect nail shape on the nail bed,” she says.

The technique for acrylic and gel has similarities, but Schwartz says product control is totally different. “Gel is more of a gentle glide and floating motion instead of the patting with acrylic. Use a light touch and float your product. I would also suggest a class if you are new to gels,” she says.

Learn how Schwartz used Akzéntz products to execute the reverse sculpting technique using gel.

1. Prep the nail. Trim and fit the Akzéntz Pro Tab form to fit your client’s finger.

2. Apply a thin, even layer of Adhere to the natural nail and cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp.

3. Create a thin extension using Enhance. Freeze cure for three seconds in the LED lamp and pinch to your desired C-curve. Cure for 30 seconds in the LED lamp.

4. Create an extended nail plate using ProFormance Balance Warm or Cool Pink. This color was created by mixing Balance Cool Pink, Options Pink, and Options Pink Blush. Cure for 30 seconds in the LED lamp.

5. File and smooth out the extended nail plate. The tip of the extended nail plate will guide your smile line in the next step so make sure to file the sides evenly. Buff the nail and clean up the dust.