Cover tech Hillary Fry explains how she got the “hammered metal” look featured on NAILS’ January 2013 cover.

Hammered Copper Nails
:

 

Although I applied the cover nails directly on the model, I couldn’t afford her on 24-hour standby. I had to use tips to practice getting a final look.

Although I applied the cover nails directly on the model, I couldn’t afford her on 24-hour standby. I had to use tips to practice getting a final look.

> CND Retention+ liquid & powder

 > Copper leaf

1. Build out one nail at a time to the desired length.

2. Working quickly, use the bottom edge of an implement and “hammer” impressions into product before it sets. If it sets too quickly, “hammer” section by sculpting zones, making sure there are no gaping untapped areas.

3. Refine with fine-grit shaping/filing to ensure no rough edges.

 

Here are the beautiful props my client provided.

Here are the beautiful props my client provided.

There are a number of ways to finish. Two options:

1. Using a gel brush, pick up a section of copper large enough to cover the nail. Gently press onto the surface, ensuring the dimpling shows through.

2. Encase in Retention+ clear or Brisa Gloss. If using Brisa as a top coat, brush one thin layer; do not remove the inhibition layer. Add copper, then the final top coat.

Pointer Finger:

 

This is the day of the shoot.

This is the day of the shoot.

To create additional visual interest, the pointer finger resembles a Rainbow Druzy rock formation, bringing in copper and complimentary colors. I’ve also been working on a series of rock-type nails, and incorporated rock candy into the mix.

> CND Additives in Black

 > Colored foils

 > Rock candy

1. Create a colored acrylic using CND Additives mixed with CND Retention+ powder. In this instance I used black.

2. Lay down Zone 1 (tip) and build a thin base. Then build around entire edge of the nail, leaving a depression in the middle.

3. Select appropriate sized pieces of rock candy and arrange in the center.

4. Using a dry brush, select colored pieces of foil and press into and around the sugar crystals.

5. If using Brisa Gloss, matte afterwards with a buffer to keep the nail from looking too finished.

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