Nails
MenuMENU
SearchSEARCH

Technique

How do I know which electric file bit to use for which purpose?

April 1, 2005

First off, as a general rule, there is no reason to go heavier than a medium grit. It can be confusing since there are so many different types of bits to choose from, but I’ll describe a few to get you started.

First is an extra-fine, tapered buffer finisher. This looks like a prepper but the grit is extra-fine, making it useful for prepping the nail before a full set and doing finish work. Some companies call them a tapered smooth. (For finishing you could also use extra-fine sanding bands, which would be thrown away after each use.) The prepper is another useful choice. It looks like the tapered buffer, but it has a medium diamond grit and comes in large and small sizes to fit different size nails. The prepper is used when doing a fill to blend the existing product flush to the natural nail. For filing off acrylic, you could use a carbide barrel or medium diamond barrel to take down the bulk of a nail. The barrel is also good for taking down length.


Keep the bit parallel to the nail. Remember that carbides are the most aggressive and the edge of the barrel can do a lot of damage if not held correctly, so I recommend those just starting out use good-quality diamond bits and a medium round Swiss carbide barrel (the edge is rounded).

I also use a drilling solution, which helps to minimize friction and eliminate dust filings. It is still important to sculpt and shape with your brush even if you are using an electric file to refine the shape.

Having more than one set of bits is important if you are doing clients back-to-back so that you can follow the correct sanitation and disinfection steps. Just putting bits in acetone is not disinfecting; it only helps to remove acrylic from the bit.

Also remember that gels are a softer material to file. Damage to the nail plate can be avoided by using the right bit for the job, holding the bit at the proper angle, and keeping the bit moving to reduce friction. Practice on people close to you or on yourself to truly see how it feels. Remember that pressure causes friction and friction causes heat!  Using an electric file without the proper training and practice is not advised. -- Debra Krasniak is an instructor at Cosmotech School of Cosmetology in Portland, Maine.

More FAQ

Why isn’t my Gelish application curing properly?

I am having a hard time with my Gelish drying dull at the end of the service when I wipe the dispersion layer. Sometimes the colors don’t adhere to the foundation and then it all wipes off. It seems to be the same clients this happens with and then with others there are no problems at all.... read more

Am I losing my touch applying acrylics?

I have a client whose nails used to last really well with acrylics. She only needed a fill every three weeks. But now they lift a lot and break. She only wears tips with an overlay. I’ve tried everything I can think of. Recently she was in need of repair on my day off, so she went to another tech and got a fill as well. She cancelled all her bookings with me and her nails are good with this other tech’s product. I use NSI and have been a tech for seven years. Perhaps I’m losing my touch? I also struggle sometimes with lifting on the sidewalls. Please help!... read more

How do I transition clients from acrylics to gel-polish when the natural nail is damaged?

I’ve had several new clients who want to take off their acrylics and get gel-polish instead. I’m seeing damage to their nails from their previous salons. How should I transition them while the damaged areas grow out?... read more

Q&A: How do I prevent French manicures from chipping?

I’m noticing that my gel-polish French manicures aren’t lasting like full-color gel-polishes. The white is chipping off at the free edge. I know I swipe the end of the free edge or the tip so drying doesn’t pull it back. What could be causing this?... read more

Are there any good videos available on properly filing a lift?

Are there any good videos available on properly filing a lift? I feel like I end up filing too much because the lift spreads as I file. Fortunately I haven’t had to do much because I think the gels I’m doing are holding up well, but when I have to, I think I’m not doing it so well.... read more

How long do you cure CND Shellac polish in a 36-watt UV light if you don’t have a CND lamp?

How long do you cure CND Shellac polish in a 36-watt UV light if you don’t have a CND lamp?... read more

The Difference Between Traditional Gels and Gel-Polish

I want to be able to explain the difference between traditional gels and gel-polish to clients in a simple way. Any tips?... read more

How do I change the art during an acrylic fill?

I have been reluctant to try acrylic nail art using embedding or colored acrylics on clients because I’m unsure of what to do when they come back in two weeks and want to change the art. Even if they just want a fill, it may not blend right with the rest of the art. Any advice?... read more

How can I stop being such a perfectionist and work faster?

I have been doing nails for 15 years and instead of getting faster, I am getting slower. I am a perfectionist and it seems the older I get the more meticulous I become, which is becoming a huge problem. I am constantly running behind with clients. I get in such a zone with their nails, sometimes working on the same nail for 10 minutes and I don’t even realize it. I keep finding one more tiny bit of cuticle or the shape is just the tiniest bit off. I would appreciate any advice to help me work faster and stop being so obsessive.... read more

Is it OK to file the nails back and forth?

I’ve read that you should never file your nails back and forth because it can damage the nails, causing them to split and crack. I’ve also read that this is a myth and it’s fine to file back and forth. Which is it?... read more

For two weeks I’ve been trying to increase my experience on acrylics on models, but I have chipped nails and unhappy models. I'm so discouraged.

I’m a newbie nail tech in my first job. For two weeks I’ve been bringing in models to increase my experience on acrylics and tips before I start taking on real clients. So far three out of the five models are complaining of their nail tips chipping off, popping off, etc. I have no clue as to what I’m doing wrong. I’m so discouraged. I worked so hard to do those nails (for free), and I have unhappy people and no idea if it’s my technique or if these people are prying things open with their acrylic nails and using them like tools. I feel like I should quit now before I upset any clients.... read more

Is it okay to use cuticle oil during a nail enhancement? Will it cause lifting?

Is it okay to use cuticle oil during a nail enhancement? Will it cause lifting?... read more