After prepping I apply a thin layer of pink to the nail bed and reverse carve a smile line in the pink. Then flash cure. Next, I apply a ball of white to the center of the nail barely touching the nail plate. Then I pull the ball up to the corner of one side for the point of the smile and pull down the gel to achieve the length and side. I then repeat the other side. Once I achieve the desired shape of the free edge, I carve the smile line and immediately get it into the UV lamp. After curing for one minute, I begin pinching in a C-curve and cure and pinch and so on. It’s important to keep this layer thin for proper curing. If needed, I then add a second layer of white for even coverage. Cure. Then I use clear builder gel to give the nail structure. Cure and pinch. Cleanse, then file the surface and cuticle for a more refined nail. -- MaeLing Parrish is the co-owner of Nail Sensation in Columbus, Ohio, and was first runner-up for Nail Technician of the Year in NAILS’ 2006 AVAs.
There are several ways you can do this. If you are using a tip, the fastest way to do it is by applying a French tip. Apply the tip and then pink gel only to the natural nail bed. (Don’t drag this over the white.) Cap the nail and build structure with the clear gel. If using a natural tip, after the pink application apply a small amount of white gel and follow the smile line made with the pink. Cap the nail and build structure with clear.
If you want to sculpt a gel nail, my favorite method is to shape the nail bed with my pink gel. I can extend and change the shape if I like. Then butt the white right up against the lip of the pink. Cap the nail and build structure with clear. The application of gel is completely different than acrylic so I would suggest taking a good class to get you on the right track.
Mary Seitzinger is the co-owner of Nail Sensation in Columbus, Ohio, and was Nail Technician of the Year in NAILS’ 2006 AVAs.