Nails
MenuMENU
SearchSEARCH

Technique

Is it true that filing nails in a back-and-forth motion will cause the nails to break or become weaker?

December 1, 2005

Filing back and forth won’t harm the natural nail plate if the proper abrasives and the correct downward pressure are used — meaning a 180-grit or higher file and a light touch. Grits below 180 should not be used on the natural nail because they cause excessive damage no matter what type of filing motion is used. Also, the heavier the downward pressure, the more damage that will occur to the nail plate. The natural nail will become weaker as layers are removed from the surface, which should be avoided.

When prepping a nail, nail technicians should only remove the shine caused by oil on the surface. If this is done correctly, less than 2% of the thickness of the nail plate will be removed, which is barely visible to the eye. If the nail plate is visibly thinner after removing nail enhancements, it is probably due to overly aggressive abrasives or filing techniques before the acrylic application. This is an all-too common problem in our industry. Nail technicians should be careful to avoid roughing up the nail plate; that’s not your job. The first job of every nail professional should be to protect the natural nail. One good way to achieve this is to avoid overfilling, aggressive abrasives, or too much downward pressure. They’re called nail enhancements for good reason. They are designed to beautify and enhance the natural nail plate, not replace it. -Doug Schoon

More FAQ

What’s the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing rock star gel nails?

What’s the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing rock star gel nails? I do my nail prep, then a layer of Akzentz Base N Gloss. I cure and put another layer of Base N Gloss, then sprinkle on the glitter and tap off some of the excess. I cure after that, and I brush off the excess again when it’s done, but a lot of glitter will come off with it. And this is with a brand new gel lamp. So I put on more gel, more glitter, etc., but I’d like to get it right the first time to save time.... read more

What could be causing the gel to shrink?

So on my last client of the day, I finish her fill, buff her nails, apply gel top coat to one of the hands and it turns out fine. But on the next hand, I do everything like I usually do, but when I put the hand in the light to cure the gel top coat, disaster happens. One finger looks like it has a hole in it (in the top coat) and the others look like the gel has literally shrunk, and they’re bumpy too. I file it all off and start again, but the same thing happens. I try one more time, and it’s still the same. I do it all one more time and even use a different lamp, but get the same results. My bulbs in both lamps are about four months old, so they shouldn’t need replacing yet. What could be causing this shrinking?... read more

What's the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing gel nails?

What’s the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing rock star gel nails? I do my nail prep, then a layer of Akzentz Base N Gloss. I cure and then put another layer of Base N Gloss, then sprinkle on the glitter and tap off some of the excess. I cure after that, and I brush off the excess again when it’s done, but a lot of glitter will come off with it. And this is with a brand new gel lamp. So I put on more gel, more glitter, etc., but I’d like to get it right the first time to save time. And this only happens with dark colors. What can I do?... read more

What causes shrinking on gel nails?

So on my last client of the day, I finish her fill, buff her nails, apply gel top coat to one of the hands and it turns out fine. But on the next hand, I do everything like I usually do, but when I put the hand in the light to cure the gel top coat, disaster happens. One finger looks like it has a hole in it (in the top coat) and the others look like the gel has literally shrunk, and they’re bumpy too. I file it all off and start again, but the same thing happens. I try one more time, and it’s still the same. I do it all one more time and even use a different lamp, but get the same results. My bulbs in both lamps are about four months old, so they shouldn’t need replacing yet. What could be causing this shrinking?... read more

Is there any such a thing as a "universal" UV light?

Is there such a thing as a “universal” UV light unit or do I have to buy a different light unit for each gel system?   ... read more

Is there such a thing as a “universal” UV light unit?

Is there such a thing as a “universal” UV light unit or do I have to buy a different light unit for each gel system?... read more

What’s the best way to put on a tip?

What’s the best way to put on a tip?... read more

What’s the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill?

What’s the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill? I’ve been doing them for years now and I still can’t get my time down. I go back and forth between the traditional way and the reverse method and neither one cuts any time off. I don’t know if I’m over-filing during prep. It usually takes me an hour and a half. I cringe when I have to do one these days. Any advice on cutting time or a new way of doing it?... read more

What's the best way to put on a tip?

What’s the best way to put on a tip?... read more

What's the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill?

What’s the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill? I’ve been doing them for years now and I still can’t get my time down. I go back and forth between the traditional way and the reverse method and neither one cuts any time off. I don’t know if I’m over-filing during prep. But I do have a couple clients who make it a point to tell me how hard it is for them to sit through my long backfills — it usually takes me an hour and a half. I cringe when I have to do one these days. Any advice on cutting time or a new way of doing it?... read more

How do I prevent polish from bubbling?

On some of my natural nail clients my polish tends to bubble. I clean the nail plate with acetone very well before I polish. Then I use base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. I usually have them hold their fingers in front of a fan between coats, and I spray a rapid dryer on after I finish. Any ideas? ... read more

How do I get acrylic or gel to stick to pre-designed nail tips?

I have decided to try pre-designed nail tips with art, but I am having trouble getting the acrylic or gel to stick to them. After a few days the product lifts off the tips. I tried to gently file the surface of the tip first, but then it takes the design off.... read more