Here’s how I backfill using the reverse technique. It’s a little different than how most do it, but I’m able to get my backfills done in under an hour.
I use a carbide bit on my e-file to remove the finish on the nails — it takes forever with a hand file. Once I remove the finish from all 10 nails, I shorten them with my e-file as well. Then I go back with the e-file to thin each nail from the stress area to the free edge. You want it to be thin so there is just a smidge of product left at the free edge.
Remember you are thinning from the apex out, and only removing about half of the old apex. You don’t want to thin the entire nail down because then you’ll have to use a big ball of pink to make a brand new apex.
Once all 10 nails are done, I prep the cuticle area with a sciver bit. It’s thin and perfect for the small cuticle area. It takes just a couple seconds to do a nail, and if I didn’t have it I would hand file.
After dehydrating and priming, I apply a pink ball to the re-growth area and shape it just like you would for a reverse full set. This requires a bigger ball than normal for a fill but smaller than what you need for a full reverse set, since your apex is pretty much already there. I do all pinks on one hand, then add the whites on that hand, then go to the other hand. By the time you finish with hand two, hand one is ready to be filed.
I do all my finish filing by hand. If you place the product just right, you just need to file lightly over the entire surface of each nail. Then dust them off and apply a finish gel or buff.
Another time-saving tip is to shape the free edge and sidewalls once just at the end when you are finish filing, as opposed to doing it twice with the prep and then again with the finishing. — Rhonda Kibuk is the owner of The Purple Pinkie Salon in Ford City, Pa.