When I sculpt with gels, I find it essential that the form be tight and fit correctly under the nail. I then apply a thin layer of gel and“flash” it under the light to allow the gel to cure partially, but not fully. This takes about 10-15 seconds.
Then, you can “pinch” the form or lightly squeeze the edges of the gel to get your curve. I then apply a second layer and let it cure for about 20-30 seconds. This is when I make the final adjustments to the curve. Cure for another minute or according to the directions of the system being used.
I use a one-step gel for the most part. If the first two layers are thin, then a third layer of gel can be applied. If my client has flat or eggshell nails, I do not give her a curve. I have found that forcing the nails to take on a shape that isn’t natural will lead to lifting or even discomfort for the client. -- Lynnette Madden is the owner of Salon 29 at Main in E. Greenville, Pa.
To get a strong C curve with gels, I recommend taking two clear forms (like Creative’s Performance Forms) and sticking them together one on top of the other. This will allow you to create a very strong form that you can apply to the finger with the desired C-curve. It will stay in place very well. I use this technique when competing with gels. -- Lee-Anne Baker-Smith is the owner of Fantasy Island in Barrie, Ontario, Canada