Technique

Why am I having lifting problems with my acrylic applications?

March 16, 2018

Lifting issues with acrylic or gel can be tricky. I go back to basics to see if the solution is on my end or my client’s. I start by having the client wash her hands with nonmoisturizing soap and water. With a cotton ball and 100% acetone, clean the nails and surrounding skin to temporarily dehydrate the area. Prep the cuticle dry using a cuticle bit, hand file to lightly etch the nail surface, brush to remove all dust, and wipe with alcohol and a lintfree pad (I use a makeup wedge) to ensure all dust has been removed. Apply pH bond, and primer if needed. It’s important to know your liquid-to-powder ratio for best adhesion. Be sure to allow the acrylic to harden completely before finish filing. Add colors of choice and top coat, capping the free edges. Pamper the client with scented cuticle oil and lotion to rehydrate the skin.

With proper prep we can ensure our nail enhancement should not lift. Then the troubleshooting begins. Where is the lifting occurring? If lifting occurs at the cuticle, most likely improper prep is the problem. If it’s happening from the sides, most likely product ratio and placement is the culprit. Lifting from the free edge may be caused by improper prep, not removing prior lifting, or an overly dry natural nail curling underneath. You should also troubleshoot clients. Do they pick? Do they have a habit of tapping a certain nail? Do they have a habit of putting a nail in their mouth and the saliva is breaking down product? Do they use products that contain acetone, including some window cleaners, jewelry cleaners, and other cleaning products? Lifting issues are frequently caused by these client behaviors.

— Amy Masters, Dayton, Wyo.-based nail tech and salon owner.
Find out about her online nail workshops on Facebook @workshopsbyamymasters.

Topics:acrylic maintenance product application lifting acrylics

More FAQ

What could be causing the gel to shrink?

So on my last client of the day, I finish her fill, buff her nails, apply gel top coat to one of the hands and it turns out fine. But on the next hand, I do everything like I usually do, but when I put the hand in the light to cure the gel top coat, disaster happens. One finger looks like it has a hole in it (in the top coat) and the others look like the gel has literally shrunk, and they’re bumpy too. I file it all off and start again, but the same thing happens. I try one more time, and it’s still the same. I do it all one more time and even use a different lamp, but get the same results. My bulbs in both lamps are about four months old, so they shouldn’t need replacing yet. What could be causing this shrinking?... read more

What's the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing gel nails?

What’s the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing rock star gel nails? I do my nail prep, then a layer of Akzentz Base N Gloss. I cure and then put another layer of Base N Gloss, then sprinkle on the glitter and tap off some of the excess. I cure after that, and I brush off the excess again when it’s done, but a lot of glitter will come off with it. And this is with a brand new gel lamp. So I put on more gel, more glitter, etc., but I’d like to get it right the first time to save time. And this only happens with dark colors. What can I do?... read more

What causes shrinking on gel nails?

Is there any such a thing as a "universal" UV light?

Is there such a thing as a “universal” UV light unit or do I have to buy a different light unit for each gel system? ... read more

Is there such a thing as a “universal” UV light unit?

Is there such a thing as a “universal” UV light unit or do I have to buy a different light unit for each gel system?... read more

What’s the best way to put on a tip?

What’s the best way to put on a tip?... read more

What’s the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill?

What’s the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill? I’ve been doing them for years now and I still can’t get my time down. I go back and forth between the traditional way and the reverse method and neither one cuts any time off. I don’t know if I’m over-filing during prep. It usually takes me an hour and a half. I cringe when I have to do one these days. Any advice on cutting time or a new way of doing it?... read more

What's the best way to put on a tip?

What’s the best way to put on a tip?... read more

What's the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill?

What’s the best way to do a pink-and-white backfill? I’ve been doing them for years now and I still can’t get my time down. I go back and forth between the traditional way and the reverse method and neither one cuts any time off. I don’t know if I’m over-filing during prep. But I do have a couple clients who make it a point to tell me how hard it is for them to sit through my long backfills — it usually takes me an hour and a half. I cringe when I have to do one these days. Any advice on cutting time or a new way of doing it?... read more

How do I prevent polish from bubbling?

On some of my natural nail clients my polish tends to bubble. I clean the nail plate with acetone very well before I polish. Then I use base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. I usually have them hold their fingers in front of a fan between coats, and I spray a rapid dryer on after I finish. Any ideas? ... read more

How do I get acrylic or gel to stick to pre-designed nail tips?

I have decided to try pre-designed nail tips with art, but I am having trouble getting the acrylic or gel to stick to them. After a few days the product lifts off the tips. I tried to gently file the surface of the tip first, but then it takes the design off.... read more

What are the dry white spots on my client’s toenails?

One of my clients has dry white spots on her big toenails. She went to the podiatrist and he said she was allergic to nail polish. I would put oil on and buff and the white spots would go away. I have seen this on almost every client at one time or another, especially in the winter. What do you think it is?... read more

Prev Next