"Now the general feeling is that ap­prenticeship programs are not needed because the hours have been increased," says Brenda Hoxsey, chairwoman of the Oregon Board of Barbers and Hairdressers and the industry liaison to the state legislature. "In 1997, the idea of an apprenticeship came up again for cosmetologists, but the way it was written a student would have to clock 2,300 hours and then spend an­other 18 months apprenticing in a salon to be eligible for a license. It was just too much."

However, Hoxsey says she thinks a revised bill requiring less apprentice­ship training might pass in the state eventually. "Because of problems with MMA, forged licenses, and cheating on exams that has already been docu­mented, I am not sure what the best solution would be to train new nail technicians. But I am sure the subject is not closed," she says.

Bypassing the Classroom

Variations on the classic apprentice-ship-for-school-credit program do exist in other states. Maine gives those interested in becoming a nail tech a choice as to how they want to accumu­late their hours: 200 hours in a school program or 400 hours in a straight apprenticeship program. But, like no other state, it allows the student to apply any accumulated, credited hours in school toward an apprenticeship, should the student decide to try on-the-job training.

Diane Laird, owner of the School of Nail Design in Bedford, N.H., added a mentoring program to her school's cur­riculum last year. "Our program is de­signed to help students decide what type of salon is best for them and gives them a chance to experience salon real­ity before they are required to work full time," she explains.

The student spends one or two days only in a salon of his or her choice to volunteer basic services. "The students are not allowed to work on clients, but may work as a receptionist or an assistant," she says. "This gives them a chance to observe the style of the salon and the nail technician as she performs client services." Laird likes the approach be­cause it allows budding nail technicians to see the importance of professionalism, quick services, and quality services.

Similar to Maine, New Hampshire ap­prentices are allowed to work on clients after part of a total of 300 hours has been spent observing and working in a salon.

"Apprentices who decide to go this route have to work in a salon double the number of hours required as a student in a traditional school and are required to study the same books to pass the state board exam" Laird explains. In her ex­perience, many of these students seem to do well on the practical part of the exam, but some do poorly on the writ­ten part. Laird thinks this may be due to the fact that book study is not empha­sized as part of their in-salon training. "It depends on the salon owner. If she is busy, she will usually sacrifice a review of the written material with the appren­tice before she would sacrifice teaching new hands-on skills," she says.

In Georgia, apprentices must log 640 hours of work in a salon. Once complet­ed, the apprentice applies to take the state board exam, which can take any where from two to six months. In the meantime, a temporary license is issued to allow the newly trained apprentice to work in a salon on clients for up to two years until she gets her license. It is only recommended that an apprentice con­tact a school to confirm that she has studied the right information during her term in the salon.

However, the Georgia State Board plans to revise the training by increas­ing the number of hours it will require and making it mandatory that some of those hours be spent in an approved nail technology program. "Last year we passed a law that requires a nail techni­cian training an apprentice to have at least 36 months of experience themselves," says Jeannette Knox, executive director of the board. "We are also plan­ning to implement a way to license ap­prentice instructors in the future."

This seems to be good news for Georgia-based salons. "The only prob­lem we have, if any, is when the state's training does not match how the gen­eral population of nail technicians does things," says Melanie Allgood, owner of Fingertips Salon in Roswell. "The ap­prentice needs to be sure to pick a salon that is current with the rules of the state and can teach the latest techniques and how to use new products."

According to Allgood, other salons may not take on apprentices because they don't have the time or resources to devote to training beginners. Georgia has tried to tackle this concern and make sure that apprentices get enough atten­tion during their tenure by requiring that each nail technician have only one apprentice train under her at a time.

Salons in Georgia as well as across the U.S. might not have the room in the salon for another nail technician, who isn't producing as fast as the sea­soned technicians. Others just can't meet state requirements for appren­ticeship programs, such as providing references or posting a bond.

In Michigan, the rules are strict in order to protect the apprentice and make sure that she receives the best possible training during her time in the salon.

Each salon must possess a cosme­tology shop license and a bond, and submit blueprints or models of the shop to be eligible to run an appren­ticeship program. The nail technician trainer must be at least 18 years of age with three years of licensed experience and may train only one apprentice at a time. The trainer is required to be present when the apprentice is working. In addition, the shop must have at least one licensed cosmetology on staff at all times. To add to the salon's commitment to its program, every trainer is also responsible for writing three state board-approved (both practical and theory) exams to test the apprentice's knowledge of anatomy and disorders, sanitation, and manicuring techniques.

Each apprenticeship requires a six-month period of 480 hours of in-salon training, during which the apprentice can work between 20 to 40 hours a week, but no more than seven hours a day in the salon.

Once the apprentice passes the salon exams and completes her re­quired hours, she is eligible to take the state board exam and should receive her license in less than two months. In the meantime, apprentices are en­couraged to work for tips doing nail art or helping around the salon until they receive their license to do nails.

Similarly, salons in Mississippi have to meet specific requirements and are inspected before they are granted per­mission by the state board to have ap­prentices. Salon owners and trainers are required to submit both personal and professional references, as well as lour notarized blueprints of the salon itself. The state is not as tough on the apprentices, who must only have a high school diploma and the desire to learn to be eligible.

Other states that allow apprentice programs include Alabama, which is the only state that requires the ap­prentice to be trained be a licensed manager; Hawaii, which requires 700 hours of salon time in lieu of school with a licensed nail technician; South Dakota, which requires six continu­ous months of 40-hour work weeks in a salon under a licensed cosmetolo­gist; and Indiana, which allows a stu­dent to apply for a work permit after 300 hours of training and applying to take the state board.

In-Salon Training Programs

Sometimes appren­ticeship programs are made to resemble in-salon training programs that many salons offer the nail technicians they have just hired. These types of programs work well be­cause the salons that end up participating, have the resources to do it right-But because there are no state-by-state learning standards, these salons are free to teach their meth­ods of performing ser­vices, right or wrong, to nail school graduates.

Award-winning Fingers' Nail Studios, is a prime example of a salon that makes such apprentice programs very successful. Ten years ago, Shari Finger opened her first salon in West Dundee, Ill.

With the absence of li­censing in her state, she was hard-pressed to find nail technicians who were up to speed on their tech­nique. Necessity moved Finger to act and she started her own appren­tice program for new nail technicians. "Even after nail technicians licensing was required in my state I had more success training technicians myself rather than hiring them from another salon are refraining them six years and many trainees later Fingers apprentice program became as much a part of the salons structure as her from door.”

Apprentices in fingers saw are not paid and are required to work on Sundays and weekends with her until they are up to speed on nail extension and natural nail services let them know up from what they are getting into, says Finger.

They are not compensated for their time but they get a great education I want them to be happy here but I reed their commitment and loyalty Apprentice work at a discounted rate $22 50 for a full set as op posed to $45 until Finger feels they have mastered the technique enough to fairly raise their prices. This works well in two ways; clients that Finger refers to as "bargain hunters" are able to get quality nail services at a discount, and the nail tech gets an opportunity to build up a loyal clientele.

Even though Illinois changed its laws to re­quire a short in-salon in­ternship, Finger has no plans to drop her pro­gram. "Even though the laws have changed, so far school training alone still doesn't seem to get them ready for working on my floor;" she says.

After two months of one-on one training with Finger, Laurie Engels was ready for the floor at Fingers, Engels has been a full-time junior nail technician for more than six months. "I needed more hands-on training than what I re­ceived in school, especially on fiberglass and gels, "says Engels. "I needed more time with the Instructor one on one, which is what I got from Shari, I learned more from her in one day than I did in 350 hours of school."

Is it Worth It?

An apprentice's education rests on the trainer's ability to teach profes­sionalism, sanitation, technique, and customer service. Even though some salon owners may only break even from their investment in training an apprentice, they are contributing to the future of their own livelihood by making the commitment.

While apprenticeship programs are not perfect, they have helped fuel many industries for hundreds of years. If school funding is cut and state boards fall victim to the legisla­tive ax, it could be up to salon owners and their staff to train the next generation of nail technicians.