Illustration by Yuiko Sugino

Illustration by Yuiko Sugino

“In 1998, I had my third child and decided to quit doing nails to be home with the kids,” says Adrienne Cheatham, a nail tech from Sidney, Neb. “I left the nail industry and began to teach preschoolers.” Though Cheatham enjoyed teaching, she says she missed the creativity of doing nails. In 2008, she and her husband purchased a building with a salon attached to it. With her husband’s encouragement, she pursued her dream of doing nails again. “It’s been so much more rewarding than my first career in nails,” says Cheatham.

The story is repeated over and over as techs who left the industry find themselves drawn back. “When the economy turned, the spa where I had worked for seven years closed,” says Lauren Parks, a nail tech living at the time in North Carolina. “I decided it was time to look for a more secure career with a guaranteed salary and benefits.” Parks moved back to her hometown of Danville, Va., and took a job as a dental assistant. Within a couple of years, she realized nothing is guaranteed. She left the “security” of the dental office and returned to doing nails. “No one is looking out for your future except you,” says Parks. “Even though I had to start fresh with no clientele, I’m so happy to be back.”

Nashville’s Melissa Bradford returned to the industry after a break of nearly five years to find nails had become an accessory.

Nashville’s Melissa Bradford returned to the industry after a break of nearly five years to find nails had become an accessory.

Though it’s familiar territory, many techs noticed changes when they returned to the industry. Drawing on past experience and the creativity characteristic of nail techs, they re-forged a successful career in the middle of a troubled economy. Their stories can guide — and inspire — techs who want to get back to their one true love.

 

New Industry

“I took a break for almost 20 years,” says Melissa Olson, a nail tech in Homestead, Fla. “I had to go back, take classes, get licensed, and re-learn the industry. In a lot of ways, it was like I’d never been in the industry at all.” Olson sees a lot of changes since her early years. In addition to licensing requirements, the standards of sanitation have noticeably improved. “I think the focus on sanitation is great,” says Olson. “Plus, there is an ongoing attempt to be mindful of the exposure for the nail tech. The products help us work faster and be more efficient, but they also minimize the effect on our health and the health of our clients.”

“When I was in school in 2001, I didn’t learn how to do gels,” says Janice Luper, a nail tech from Tehachapi, Calif.

“When I was in school in 2001, I didn’t learn how to do gels,” says Janice Luper, a nail tech from Tehachapi, Calif.

Many techs spoke about the amount of products available compared to the past. “I remember when I started, wholesalers had one or two brands of acrylic,” says Kelly Saddleton, a nail tech in Thorpe St. Andrew, Norwich, U.K. The industry has seen not only an increase in product, but also in the number of salons. “There seem to be salons and mobile technicians popping up all over the place,” says Saddleton. With the explosion, salons have become a “third place,” a destination spot for girlfriends and parties, or an affordable escape for someone who wants to unplug and be alone. Instead of being purely maintenance, the appointment has become part of the fabric of clients’ social lives.

The nail community — networking, trade shows, blogs, social media, trade magazines — has become vibrant and interactive. “The industry is full of opportunities in many different areas instead of being limited to sitting at a table doing nails all day every day,” says Olson.

After a break of almost 20 years, Melissa Olson had to completely re-learn the industry.

After a break of almost 20 years, Melissa Olson had to completely re-learn the industry.

The new industry gives techs unprecedented products, tools, support, and growth opportunities. Instead of being the overlooked, add-on sector of the larger beauty industry, the nail industry has developed its own personality and identity.

 

New Skills

The type of services clients expect has changed. Techs who enter the industry after a long absence have found the need to develop skills to meet the demand. “When I was in school in 2001, I didn’t learn how to do gels,” says Janice Luper, a nail tech from Tehachapi, Calif. “I remember the teacher told us if we could polish, we could do gels. We never even read those pages in the book!”

Lynsey Young moved in with her grandmother to reduce expenses while building a clientele.

Lynsey Young moved in with her grandmother to reduce expenses while building a clientele.

“Ten years ago, women were very basic about their nail styles,” says Melissa Bradford, a tech in Nashville, Tenn., who returned after a break of nearly five years. “Now, our nails are accessories to reflect our personalities just like a purse, necklace, or hair color.”

Regardless of how long you’ve been out of the industry, you will surely need to learn a new skill to be successful when you return. (In truth, techs who never leave the industry need to continue learning new skills.) Many options exist of how to learn, from asking for help from more experienced techs to trade shows, networking events, attending classes, and manufacturers’ videos. “I ordered books from Milady, read them page-by-page, and did all the worksheets,” says Luper. In addition, she had the added advantage of one-on-one help: Her cousin, Susan Loggins, spent five days teaching her how to apply gel nails.

Lauren Parks worked briefly as a dental assistant because she felt it was a more secure career.

Lauren Parks worked briefly as a dental assistant because she felt it was a more secure career.

 

Along with all the technical skills returning techs may need to acquire, another important skill can ease the transition: the ability to use social media to announce and promote yourself. “I found that social media (mainly Facebook) was the best source of advertisement for us,” says Lynsey Young, a nail tech from Maryville, Tenn., who helps with the marketing responsibilities of the salon. Start by creating a business page, ask your friends to “like” the page, and immediately start educating clients and promoting yourself through this free marketing tool. Post pictures of yourself, your nails, your salon, salon events, etc., so people understand your passion and excitement.

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New Spot

Finding your perfect spot will be a big factor in your success. Make your decision based not only on pay but opportunity. Being an independent contractor may sound intimidating if you don’t have a clientele, but if the opportunity is in a busy salon where you’re the only nail tech, it could be the perfect relationship. Conversely, a 50/50 split that includes your supplies may sound like an ideal arrangement, but if the owner of the salon doesn’t value the staff in the nail department, you’ll be fighting an uphill battle. “In one salon, the general attitude was, ‘Oh, it’s just nails, and You’re just the nail tech,’” says Kellie O’Connor, a tech from Jacksonville, Fla., returning to the industry after a five-year break. Make sure the atmosphere is as beneficial as the financial compensation.

 

Kelly Saddleton has noticed that professional nail services appeal to a broader range of clients now than when she first entered the business.

Kelly Saddleton has noticed that professional nail services appeal to a broader range of clients now than when she first entered the business.

New Clients

“I’ve found the range of clients has broadened,” says Saddleton. Instead of appealing to women 25 to 50, today’s salon draws clients of all ages — and both genders. “More men are coming into the salon, and it’s awesome for our business,” says Young.

The demand on the salon to host parties for showers, bachelorettes, and young divas continues to grow, opening up an additional stream of revenue. Techs have the opportunity, then, to develop a reputation for themselves within a niche market. Develop a reputation as the go-to destination for girlfriends, the spot where men can feel comfortable, or the after-hours party stop. Other options: build a reputation as the tech with the highest sanitation standards — proven by your referrals from local podiatrists — or the tech who always knows (and can provide) the latest and greatest. “I found my niche in unique and wearable nail art trends,” says Bradford. “I’m known in Nashville for my creations, and that niche has helped me cultivate a following.” Her advice: “Find your passion. Passion is contagious! Do what makes you happy and success will follow.”

 

Same Risk

Janice Luper left the California salon where she worked as a nail tech and moved with her family to Arizona. Within a short time, she was put on five months’ bed rest due to a high-risk pregnancy. “I was still out of work at my six-week checkup,” says Luper. “I simply wasn’t in a position financially to go without a steady income while I tried to build a clientele in a new city.” Luper took a job as a waitress, and then moved into the health care industry. It would be almost 10 years before she was in a position to risk getting back into the business.

Kellie O’Connor, a tech from Jacksonville, Fla., says it’s important to find a salon where nail techs are valued.

Kellie O’Connor, a tech from Jacksonville, Fla., says it’s important to find a salon where nail techs are valued.

 

“I became licensed in 2005,” says Young. “I worked at a nursing home full-time and tried building a clientele while working part-time in a salon.” Young says she quickly became ­frustrated by the challenge of building a clientele while still holding down a ­full-time job. Her frustration turned to disillusionment, and she dropped out of the industry. It would take seven years before Young could position herself to build a clientele.

The obstacles that challenged these two techs — and many others like them — are the same today as they’ve always been. It takes time, consistency, and availability to build a clientele. Much of that time is spent in a salon with no clients, hoping for calls and walk-ins. Scheduling time to go out and promote yourself means time away from the desk. At the same time, most techs need to work a job that pays a steady income in order to pay their bills. It can be overwhelming and seem nearly impossible to think of doing both. And, as any tech knows, there’s no shortcut.

Many times, techs need to be ready to make a radical change: a decision often made in desperation. “At one point, I found myself in a job I hated,” says Young. “I was miserable. I would cry on the way to work, cry during lunch, cry after work.” One day, Young was sitting at work, talking on the phone with her boyfriend. He was lamenting the situation, hating to hear her so unhappy. “He finally asked me how much longer it would take for me to get a degree,” remembers Young. “As I started to explain, I stopped in mid-sentence and said, ‘This is crazy! I have a career; I’m a nail tech.’” Young knew from past experience how much time and dedication it takes to build a clientele — and this time, she put herself in a position to be successful. “Even though I had lived on my own for 12 years, I moved into my grandmother’s house so I could take a real chance on doing what I love,” says Young. “I can now proudly say I work at Anthony’s Hair Design, and I am so glad I made the transition.”

Lowering costs as Young did is one way to set yourself up for the challenge of building a clientele. Another way is to re-imagine the source of your “steady” income. For example, instead of trying to build a clientele while holding down your full-time job Monday through Friday, drop the demanding job for a position that gives you the time you’ll need. This could mean working weekends as a waitress, working shifts at a grocery store on Saturday night through Tuesday so you can be in the salon Wednesday through Saturday morning, or picking up some other job that may seem menial, but allows you to focus on your true love. No one said it would be easy. They said it would be worth it.

 

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