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Technique

Creating the Edge Nail

by Staff Writer | December 7, 2009

The edge nail is a current nail shape trend. Angel Smith, a Young Nails educator, shows you how to get this look in your salon.

 

1. Crease the form in three places: Down the center to create a “spine” and on each side.

 

2. Fold the form in half and cut a small notch in the center of the spine to allow the form to fit properly under the nail.

3. Prep the nail and apply bonding agent. When you apply the form make sure the spine sits slightly higher than the nail plate.

4. Use the reverse method and build the nail bed with a medium-wet bead of acrylic. Hold the client’s finger at a downward angle to let gravity help elongate the nail bed (so you just cover the notch in the form and press the smile line into place).

5. Make a thin free edge with a glitter acrylic mix of the client’s choice and, if you work quickly, you can embed anything the client requests at this point. (I used deep purple at the smile line and marbleized purple and clear glitter acrylic, then embedded icy Mylar.)

6. (Optional) After the nail is slightly cured and looks glazed over pinch the sides to enhance the deep angle of the nail.

7. Apply a big bead of clear acrylic and encase the free edge. It should be on the thicker side so you have enough to file the spine into shape.

8. Finish file the cuticle area as you would normally. The smile line is where the spine should begin and continue to the free edge of the nail. File the edge up toward the ceiling to create the sharp spine, making sure not to round or soften it.

9. When your spine is sharp, remove the dust, apply a gel sealant, and cure. Cap the free edge with the gel. Apply cuticle oil.

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