Pinching the C-curve seems as basic to artificial nail application as prepping the nail plate or buffing the finished nail. But it shouldn’t be, according to industry chemist Doug Schoon, who says pinching the sidewalls of the artificial nail before the product is fully hardened or cured can lead to serious nail damage.
“As the sidewalls are pushed inward, the center portion of the artificial nail pushes upward,” writes Schoon in his new book Nail Structure & Product Chemistry, Second Edition. “This pushes upward on the center of the plate’s free edge. This constant upward force can rip and tear the seal between the nail plate and the nail bed, causing them to separate. The pinching force can also damage the surface of the natural nail.” Instead, Schoon recommends building the curvature with a wooden dowel or sculptured nail form during product application. “This will avoid will avoid putting excessive stress on the nail plate and bed,” he says.