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Am I losing my touch applying acrylics?

September 03, 2014

I have a client whose nails used to last really well with acrylics. She only needed a fill every three weeks. But now they lift a lot and break. She only wears tips with an overlay. I’ve tried everything I can think of. Recently she was in need of repair on my day off, so she went to another tech and got a fill as well. She cancelled all her bookings with me and her nails are good with this other tech’s product.
I use NSI and have been a tech for seven years. Perhaps I’m losing my touch? I also struggle sometimes with lifting on the sidewalls. Please help!

Answer

There are many techs who have great success with clients going three to four weeks in between fills with NSI products. The exceptional adhesion combined with durability and flexibility make it a great choice for techs looking to extend time between fills. So here are a few things I would look at:

First, I would make sure your product hasn’t expired and that it is stored correctly and not contaminated. Check the expiration date on the products. Liquids and powders are good for a year after they are opened. Liquids should be stored in a temperature-controlled environment and not stored near the powder.
Make sure you’re taking steps to not contaminate your liquid. For example, don’t use a dropper to take it out of the bottle and make sure you never leave it open on your station. Also make sure you’re using new liquid for each client.
Check your prep. Are you getting down into the sidewalls with your file and cleansing and dehydrating well in that area? Is your brush contaminated? Brushes should be cleaned and stored in a brush holder away from all the dust and contaminates that are present at a nail station.
Mix ratio of the product is also key. You should be using a medium-wet mix ratio with the NSI Attraction system. If you’re working with it too wet or too dry, this can cause product breakdown, which eventually leads to broken nails.
Are you using the correct primer properly? If a methacrylic acid primer is used and it touches existing product, it can cause product breakdown and discolor the acrylic. Attraction acid-free primer is the best primer to use with the Attraction line of acrylics.
— Malinda Haggerty, director of sales and education for NSI

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I have a client who is in the medical field so her hands are constantly in water. She has me keep the length of her acrylic nails short. No matter what I do, she always has at least one nail that comes off, and she always has lifting and gets water under the acrylic. I prep the nails correctly, I have a cuticle bit to clean the cuticle area, and I wipe the nail with alcohol, dehydrate the nail, and prime the nail. What should I do?

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