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Technique

What causes gel to crack?

April 01, 2009

Any idea what causes gel to crack?

Answer

Cracking can be associated with many things. One is proper structure and apex placement. If your structure is too flat, you’ll get cracking, generally in the stress zone and sidewall area. Always blend your product flush into the nail at the cuticle, and have most of the product over the stress area, thinning toward the free edge (think almonds).

Another problem is over-filing. Be careful not to over-file your sidewall structure. In our efforts to make the most beautiful nail possible, we often over-file this area to create a more slender enhancement. This actually weakens the sidewalls and leads to cracking.

Also, keep in mind that some clients are rougher on their nails than others. With these clients, I experiment with different products to find out what works best for them. Sometimes a gel with a little more flexibility will solve the cracking problem, and sometimes the opposite is true. This pertains especially to new clients. They may need to ease into their new enhancements and start with two-week appointments. You can slowly work them into three- and four-week schedules as they become accustomed to their enhancements.

— Melisa Hansen is an educator for Akzentz.

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