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Technique

When you sculpt with gels, how do you get a C-curve?

February 01, 2005

When you sculpt with gels, how do you get a C-curve?

Answer

When I sculpt with gels, I find it essential that the form be tight and fit correctly under the nail. I then apply a thin layer of gel and“flash” it under the light to allow the gel to cure partially, but not fully. This takes about 10-15 seconds.

Then, you can “pinch” the form or lightly squeeze the edges of the gel to get your curve. I then apply a second layer and let it cure for about 20-30 seconds. This is when I make the final adjustments to the curve. Cure for another minute or according to the directions of the system being used.

I use a one-step gel for the most part. If the first two layers are thin, then a third layer of gel can be applied. If my client has flat or eggshell nails, I do not give her a curve. I have found that forcing the nails to take on a shape that isn’t natural will lead to lifting or even discomfort for the client. -- Lynnette Madden is the owner of Salon 29 at Main in E. Greenville, Pa.

To get a strong C curve with gels, I recommend taking two clear forms (like Creative’s Performance Forms) and sticking them together one on top of the other. This will allow you to create a very strong form that you can apply to the finger with the desired C-curve. It will stay in place very well. I use this technique when competing with gels.  -- Lee-Anne Baker-Smith is the owner of Fantasy Island in Barrie, Ontario, Canada

 

Technique

How can I prevent lifting when my client's hands are constantly in water?

I have a client who is in the medical field so her hands are constantly in water. She has me keep the length of her acrylic nails short. No matter what I do, she always has at least one nail that comes off, and she always has lifting and gets water under the acrylic. I prep the nails correctly, I have a cuticle bit to clean the cuticle area, and I wipe the nail with alcohol, dehydrate the nail, and prime the nail. What should I do?

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