I have a client with ski jump nails (the free edge points upward). How do I correct this problem?
A tip with a liquid and powder overlay is your best solution for a ski jump nail. Begin your application by filing down the natural nail as short as possible and then lightly bevel the free edge downward to eliminate the natural upturned edge. When you apply your tip to the natural nail, apply it at a downward angle to counteract the “up slope” of the natural nail. Applying the tip at this angle will create a gap between the nail plate and the contact area of your tip. (As long as the free edge of the nail is secure and encased in the stop point of your tip, the rest of your contact area can be lightly and gently buffed away.)
Make sure that you apply your product a little thicker in zone 2 (the arch area) to reinforce the seam between the tip and natural nail. As soon as those ski jump nails get a little “top heavy” they are going to pop off, so make sure that your client comes in every two weeks for her rebalance. (Melissa Carlini is an educator for Creative Nail Design based in Colorado Springs, Colo.)