This method for backfilling pink-and-white enhancements takes only a few seconds to learn, but it can save minutes on your service times and give you beautiful, laser-crisp smile lines. Lammers says once you’ve mastered this technique, you’ll wonder why you did it any other way.
Step 1. Select an Under Nail Cleaner or UNC carbide bit for your electric file and lock it in place. Using a speed that is comfortable for you and your client, start on the left side of the nail (if you are right handed) and lay the bit down just above the previous smile line where you want the new smile line to be and apply light pressure.
Step 2. Gently bring the electric file around the nail following the previous smile line toward the center of the nail. Turn at the bottom to continue toward the right side and complete the new smile line.
Step 3. Place the bit at a 45-degree angle just below the new smile line and remove product from the tip area, creating a trench in the nail.
Step 4. Place the bit flush with the nail and remove the surface from the tip area of the enhancement only.
Step 5. Remove any loose product from around the cuticle area, taking special care not to touch the natural nail with the electric file.
Step 6. With a hand file or a sanding band, remove the surface shine from the rest of the enhancement and from the natural nail.
Step 7. Remove the dust with a clean nylon brush; dehydrate and prime the nail. Then apply a bead of white acrylic to the nail behind the new smile line you cut, taking care not to push the white acrylic over the new smile line. Apply the pink or clear acrylic to the cuticle area of the nail plate only.
Step 8. File and finish the nail as you normally would and you’re done.