Former NTNA competitor Katie Barnes demonstrates how to sculpt an almond nail shape with liquid and powder, using her KB Tool Range to adjust the nail form.
1. Prep the nail.
2. Remove the form from the form paper and place the tab symmetrically in the middle of the form. Leave a gap where the form meets the natural nail — otherwise this will thicken the cutting zone and be more prone to tearing.
3. Precisely close the lower wings of your form together, ensuring both sides meet up flawlessly. Close the end of the form into a point.
4. Place the form on the finger. From the side view, the form should be tilting down slightly. From the bird’s eye view, the form should be closed. If there are gaps where the form meets the nail, the form must be tailored to fit seamlessly.
5. Using KB Form Tailoring White Gel Pen draw around the shape of the free edge. Using a white gel pen prevents staining and denting.
6. Use KB Curved Form Tailoring Scissors to cut out this template.
7. Place the form back in the same position as step 4. Any gaps will now be closed. Use the white gel pen to place a mark where the corner points of the natural free edge are.
8. Using KB Straight Form Tailoring Scissors, make approximately a 1cm long cut at a 45-degree angle.
9. Correct adjustments have been made to the nail form. Place the form in the same position as step 4. Pinch underneath the form. For a pointed almond, pinch the form closed at the point where your free edge extension ends. The cuts in the previous step will allow a tight pinch and deep c-curve to be created without the need for pinching the enhancement.
10. Apply the first bead of cover pink at the free edge. Bring the side walls down marginally.
11. Apply the second and third beads of cover pink. The apex should be at the back third and come downwards in a very soft slope to the free edge.
12. Remove the nail form.
13. File and buff into shape.